2016/12/17

Iran 04: Camels, sand-storm and the free rooms for 4 cyclists...

1st-9th November 2016: Esfahan – Ezhyeh - Varzaneh – Naein – Aqda – Meybod – Yazd (511 km)

We had great days in Esfahan with the two new buddies, Daniel and Daniela. We really enjoyed their companies that we had a nice cycling week with great performance. During this 500 km, we were invited to stay in free hotel/guesthouse rooms in total 3 times. Oh, and the breakfast buffet was included. Yay!



On the first cycling day after Esfahan, we chose a smaller road with less traffic to get to Ezhyeh town and camped in a nice green park. That evening, Ahmad, a friendly local man (that we met when entering the town) came to our tents to talk. We shared nice stories about our trip to him and also our wish to eat „Dizi” – a special dish from Esfahan that we couldn’t try. Guess what, the next morning, we got up and saw a huge delicious portion of „Dizi” waiting for us next to our tents with a kind and humble note from Ahmad. The Iranian hospitality could always suprises us!

The next day, the four of us arrived in Varzaneh town and got offered a free room at Chapaker traditional guesthouse. Nice! There was a small dessert only 8 km from the guesthouse and we decided to cycle there just for fun. Well, we didn’t know how windy it was that day and so we bumped into a fierce sand-storm the first time in our lives. Sandy wind came from all directions and you felt like it’s the End of the World. We couldn’t see anything farther than 20 meters as sand went to our eyes, ears, nose and mouth through the masks. I couldn’t breath normally. And there was no signs that all these thing would ever end. We struggled to find the way back and somehow we got back safe and sound to the guesthouse. We made it! 
 
Sand-storm
There was a quite interesting thing about the warning signs along our journey from Europe to Asia. From “Deer!” in Europe, it became “Cow/sheep/pig!” in the Balkans. And the most exciting one that we’ve waited for months finally appeared. “Camel!”. We did see camels not long after the sign!



The next two days, four of us had a nice time being adopted by a kind and hospitable family of a photographer in Naein. The story was, we arrived at a supermaket in Naein when it was quite dark and very cold without having any booked accomodations. By chance, we saw a Alireza, a young boy with a motorbike so we came to ask him for some helps. With no doubts, he led us to the photographic studio of his family nearby. We rested there meanwhile Alireza went home to arrange a room for us for that night. Morteza, the daddy, was such a kind and warm-hearted person. He even invited a well-known English teacher in town, Moji, to the studio to talk to us. Moji had done an excellent job to entertain us and we ended up having a delicious dinner at Morteza’s house.                                                                     
 
With Morteza's nice family


We loved them too much and seemed like they couldn’t get enough of us. The result was that we spent another day with this lovely family. The next day, they brought us to all the most famous attractions in town as well as their nice pistachio garden. We had best quality roasted and fresh pistachio, great tea with fresh saffron just picked from the garden by ourselves. One funny story came from a women in the family when she was arrested by the police. Well, she didn’t do anything besides riding a bicycle but that’s enough for a crime in this country. You can guess how jealous she was of me!

Leaving Naein behind, we headed to Aqda where a stranger invited us to the only done room at his under construction hotel. Yes, for free. And we were rejected at payment from the owner of a local restaurant in the evening. He convinced us that it was his normal act as Germany, Hungary and Vietnam are three good friends of Iran. Well, we own you too much, Iran!
 
We spent a night in two of these room for Muslim pilgrims
The next destination of our journey was Meybod where we were accepted to stay for free at two of the pilgrim rooms in a shrine. None of us was pilgrim, by the way! The Iranian hospitality is beyond any distances between religions and races. The next day, we finally made it to Yazd and can you believe this: we got free lodging at a nice hotel right at the heart of the city. Every morning we got up with a wonderful breakfast buffet waited. We truly had a nice relaxing time in this city. Those days in Yazd, we visited ancient villages with the towers of silence and climbed up to the sky-burial (by vultures) platform which was used until the 70s.
The shrine in Yazd


Sky-burial platform

Towers of silence

Time flied and it was time to say goodbye to the nice German couple. We continued to cycle two again...

Linh


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